The French cuisine in NYC is admittedly hit-or-miss: I feel that the deference to tradition and unassuming presentation of many French dishes is in direct conflict with the inventiveness, verve and courage that it takes for New York restaurateurs to carve a name for themselves in the city’s congested food landscape. There is one hidden gem however that occupies a tier of French restaurants above that of ordinary cafes such as David's, the subject of my last post, which is still very good (sorry it’s been a while since I’ve written one of these). Le French Diner, inconspicuously located on a narrow LES block, rivals some of the cafes in Paris that I consider to be quintessential, in their compact, yet diverse menus and overall hospitality. Before experiencing a meal here, taking in the design and atmosphere of the restaurant is a treat in and of itself.
The restaurant takes the right cues from both American and French culture to create an inviting, intriguing ambiance for its patrons. As the name suggests, it’s inspired by the classic diner aesthetic, featuring iconic diner stools in its tiny space in lieu of “fancier” seating. Given that the restaurant’s space is so small, the smell of cooking in the kitchen permeates the room and heightens the sensory experience for diners, in a way giving an olfactory preview of the dishes featured on the fairly small menu. The food was absolutely delicious. I dined here with my dad and sister for my 27th birthday, and we started our meal with a delectable cheese board. The flavors featured on the board ranged from sharp and tangy to rich and creamy, and everything in between. Next came an octopus dish. This one was memorable, with a zingy, garlicky aioli that balanced the uniquely ultra-chewy, fishy yet gamy octopus. The escargots were incredible, and they clearly paid ample attention to the presentation of this French staple to keep it accessible to impatient New Yorkers: the snails were already removed from the shells, basted in the quintessential herbaceous green sauce. While not strictly authentic, (all the more so evident as I’ve had escargot the last two nights in Paris, which entailed delicately prying the snails from their shells), it was definitely appreciated. Funnily enough, I began this review not long after my birthday but clearly got sidetracked, delaying my finishing of this article until today as I find myself in the French capital on vacation with friends. Despite my irresoluteness in finishing this review (which I aim to be rid of going forward) my current dining experiences in Paris, albeit limited, provide the requisite reference point from which I can accurately judge Le French Diner’s quality and competence in its representation of French cuisine. I must say, it exemplifies the best things about French food in many ways: from the freshness of the food, the homey environment next to the kitchen, to the emphasis on concise menus with mostly shareable dishes. It is as fine of an example of high-quality French dining as any you’ll find in New York City; for now it’s my favorite. I’ve intuited that perhaps the only French staple they’re missing but would benefit from including is French onion soup (so good). Merci et jusqu’à la prochaine fois!
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